Wednesday, December 27, 2006

West Sacramento’s experience may hold lesson for S.F., which has adopted similar strategy

Demian Bulwa, Chronicle Staff Writer

Tuesday, December 26, 2006

(12-26) 04:00 PST West Sacramento — A police officer stopped Robert Sanchez one night in April as he walked near his home in this blue-collar city, though Sanchez wasn’t suspected of committing a crime.

Sanchez, 18, admitted he was a member of the Norteño gang, the officer said. He also wore a gang tattoo and was with another Norteño, his sister’s fiance.

“You are being served with a permanent gang injunction,” the officer told him.

With that, Sanchez lost the right to move freely in his neighborhood. He’s now prohibited indefinitely from hanging out with more than 125 other alleged Norteños, some of them relatives, in a wide swath of the city. He must also obey other restrictions, including a 10 p.m. curfew.

The court injunction against the Norteño “Broderick Boys,” named for the neighborhood where many of them live, has stirred controversy since a judge issued it nearly two years ago, dividing residents who feel safer because of it from those who see it as racial profiling.

West Sacramento’s experience may be a lesson for San Francisco, where City Attorney Dennis Herrera secured the city’s first anti-gang injunction last month and is preparing to ask for more.

 Herrera’s action against the Oakdale Mob is narrower than the West Sacramento injunction, applying to a housing project in Bayview-Hunters Point instead of a 3-square-mile “safe zone” in West Sacramento. But it raises many of the same legal and cultural issues.

The toughest question is whether the injunctions work well enough to justify their rigidity.

“It’s absolutely worked,” said Jeff Reisig, the Yolo County prosecutor who sought the injunction before his successful run this year to become district attorney. “The fact that San Francisco has decided to pursue a gang injunction is telling. This works, and it’s legal.”

Taking a break from his custodial job at a West Sacramento elementary school, Danny Velez, 56, said the injunction hurt his son, even though the 15-year-old has nothing to do with the Norteños.

“Ever since this injunction, it’s been pure hell to raise a son. They’ve been profiled and segregated,” Velez said of young Latinos. “He’s constantly harassed about whether he’s in a gang, by teachers and by police.”

Sanchez, who is on probation for a robbery conviction, concedes he is a member of the Norteños(“Northerners”), one of two prison-based gangs that have warred since the 1960s. Rival Sureños (“Southerners”) are often newer arrivals to the country. Norteños claim the color red; Sureños wear blue.

Sanchez is looking for work and says he grudgingly complies with the injunction. But at some point, he said, he’ll inevitably violate one of the rules.

“I’m going to get in trouble like I was banging,” he said, “when I’m not banging anymore.”

West Sacramento’s safe zone covers roughly one-seventh of the city, including the heavily Mexican American and Russian American neighborhoods of Broderick and Bryte, across the Sacramento River from the state capital. Latinos make up 30 percent of the city’s 45,000 people.

Once an industrial backwater isolated by the river, West Sacramento started growing after residents voted to incorporate in 1987 and the city improved roads and water supplies. When the Oakland A’s minor-league affiliate built a ballpark seven years ago, it chose West Sacramento.

Some residents, like Ray Martinez, are excited about the growth. “Cleaning up the neighborhood is good,” said Martinez, 48, a floor designer who lives in Broderick. “If it wasn’t for the real estate market, I don’t think the police would be doing this.”

Others think gentrification is harming longtime residents and refer to a wall that separates Broderick from a housing development called the Rivers as the “Great Wall of Divide.”

“What we’ve learned is you follow the money,” said Rebecca Sandoval, a Sacramento activist who has organized injunction opponents. “Wherever the developers go, up comes an injunction.”

Reisig, the county prosecutor, said development had nothing to do with the suit he filed in December 2004. It called the Broderick Boys the city’s “most powerful criminal street gang,” with 350 members acting in packs to deal drugs, rob and assault.

In a move that still angers opponents, prosecutors gave notice of the suit to just one alleged member, and he lived in Rancho Cordova, 15 miles away. Reisig wrote in a court filing that the alleged Norteño, Billy Wolfington, would spread the word to compatriots.

Wolfington didn’t show up in court to contest the injunction, however, and neither did any other alleged members of the gang. With no opposition in attendance, Superior Court Judge Thomas Warriner granted a permanent injunction on Feb. 3, 2005.

Police have since served about 130 alleged Norteños, said Lt. David Farmer. The group, which includes some women and non-Latino whites, also was placed in a gang database accessible to police around the state.

In San Francisco, attorneys say they will file evidence in court against alleged Oakdale Mob members before serving them. But in West Sacramento, police officers carry papers so they can serve people on the spot who fit criteria such as admitting Norteño membership or having visible gang tattoos.

The result has been a polarizing debate. Reisig wrote in a filing that “nobody who lives in the safety zone is immune from a random and violent assault by the Broderick Boys,” an assertion rejected as too strong by many city leaders and residents.

“It’s not as though you couldn’t walk down the streets of Broderick without being gunned down,” said Mayor Christopher Cabaldon, who supports the injunction.

West Sacramento recorded two homicides last year; San Francisco had 96, or about three times as many per capita.

The primary victims of Norteños, many residents said, were teenagers who were recruited or attacked for being Sureños — even if they weren’t. West Sacramento has some Sureños, but they are not subject to the injunction.

“Three or four years ago, it was pretty bad. If you walked to the store, they’d ask you what gang you’re representing, and you had to be very careful,” said Antonio Ramirez, 21, a construction worker who lives in Broderick. “Usually it’s not only one (gang member who approaches), but around six or seven.”

Ramirez emigrated from Mexico in 2000 and said he was soon threatened because he had Sureño friends. As a result, he said, he dropped out of West Sacramento’s River City High School as a junior. He said he believes the injunction has made a positive difference.

But some injunction opponents say there is no such thing as the Broderick Boys, and that the injunction singles out people who aren’t connected by a chain of command.

Martha Garcia, a former state worker who heads the anti-injunction Americans for Freedom, said those who have been served are either “wannabes,” or Norteños who participate in the gang only in prison, or people who did nothing worse than grow up together in a hardscrabble neighborhood.

Lt. Farmer acknowledged that not everyone who has been served with the injunction is a Broderick Boy. Some on the list, like Sanchez, grew up elsewhere.

“It really had to do with Norteños,” Farmer said. “It’s like throwing a net out in the ocean, and you’re trying to catch salmon. You’re going to catch other fish.”

Prosecutors and police reject the argument that a person can be a Norteño but not be involved in crime, saying the gang itself is an organized criminal enterprise.

Mayor Cabaldon called the argument that no gang exists “an unfortunate tactic” that “distracted from the question of how we can make this as surgical as possible to avoid problems.”

Garcia’s nephew, Richard “Trino” Savala, said his aunt’s assertions contradict his own experience. A former boxer who became a gang and addiction counselor after serving time in prison, he said he was one of the original Broderick Boys in the 1970s, when he sold drugs and was shot twice.

The Broderick Boys, he said, started with young men drawn to Cesar Chavez’s farm labor movement but became more powerful, aggressive and violent.

“Over the years, homeboys kept coming out of prison and promoting this stuff to their little boys and cousins and nephews,” said Savala, who left the gang in 2000. “The goal was to put fear in the neighborhood and allow them to profit from selling drugs.”

Savala said some people, including his brother, have been unfairly served with the injunction, but he still had harsh words for opponents of the action.

“They’re in so much denial,” he said. “You have parents who want to point the finger at the police and the schools. They need to open their eyes.”

The legal questions in the case have been as intense as the cultural debate. One involves an “opt-out” application offered by police. Those served with the court order can sign a form saying they “renounce any actual or alleged membership” with the Broderick Boys or Norteños. With police approval, they can escape the injunction’s restrictions.

Just three people served with the injunction have opted out, Farmer said. Injunction opponents say the reason is simple: The form is an implicit confession.

Robert Sanchez said he wouldn’t sign the form because he would be considered a snitch.

“That’s paperwork on you,” he said. “You’re going to get f — up by your own homies.”

The American Civil Liberties Union has tried to fight the injunction, representing four men who said they weren’t given fair notice of the initial hearing. A judge, though, said the ACLU couldn’t represent the gang’s interests if its clients claimed they weren’t members. An appeal is pending.

“You don’t want to go to court and concede one of the main points they have to prove,” ACLU attorney Jory Steele said.

Whether the injunction has made the community safer is difficult to determine. Yolo County Public Defender Barry Melton said the strategy has worked “to some degree. But if I imposed a curfew in the Tenderloin, crime would go down there, too. It’s been used more than anything else for monitoring, to stop folks and control them.”

Farmer said crime is down in Broderick but said he could not give statistics. Reisig said violent crime prosecutions of Broderick Norteños dropped 80 percent in the year after the injunction.

Reisig said he has prosecuted more than 75 violations of the injunction; one person served 90 days. Melton said two fathers were detained for attending the same youth baseball game, an account Farmer called inaccurate.

Police and opponents disagree on whether officers are honoring the injunction’s exceptions for school and church, or traveling to legitimate business and entertainment activities at night.

Standing outside his apartment with family members on a recent afternoon, Sanchez said the injunction was not reforming Norteños. He suggested, though, that it might have some benefit for West Sacramento.

“Hell no, people are just getting smarter,” he said. “They’re taking it to Sacramento.”

His 17-year-old brother, Angel — who sipped from a 40-ounce bottle of malt liquor — and his sister’s fiance, Jesse Contreras Jr., 20, each said they had been served with papers.

“How can I provide for my family?” asked Contreras, a warehouseman whose fiancee is seven months pregnant. “What if we run out of diapers at 11 at night and I have to go to the store?”

Each said it was hard for young men to avoid Norteño membership when, in Contreras’ words, “it’s all around you. It’s never OK to bang, but you grow up in it.”

By continuing to identify themselves as Norteños, they said, they were not admitting to being involved in crime.

“You’re still where you’re from,” said Contreras, who wore a striped red polo shirt common among Norteños, “but you’re not acting stupid anymore.”

Posted by M at 05:39:38 | Permalink | No Comments »

Monday, December 25, 2006

Nuevo Catholics

By DAVID RIEFF; Published: December 24, 2006

Like the three services celebrated earlier in the morning and the four that will follow into the afternoon, the 10:45 a.m. Sunday Mass at St. Thomas the Apostle Church in the Pico-Union district of downtown Los Angeles is crammed to the rafters, even though the church holds nearly 1,000 parishioners. When I spoke on a recent Sunday to Msgr. Jarlath Cunnane, or Father Jay, as he is known by his congregation, he said: “If we had the space, I think another thousand people might well come to each Sunday Mass. We’re full, bursting at the seams, and so are most churches in the archdiocese.”

 

In many ways, this is the best of times to be a Catholic in Los Angeles. “In the 1980s, we were conscious of dioceses closing churches all over the Eastern United States,” Cunnane told me. We were sitting in his office in a low-slung new building across the street from the church, where the administrative work of the parish is done. “Our problem is the reverse: were it not for the shortage of priests, we would be expanding our ministry.”

This news comes as something of a surprise, given the fact that the last four decades have been such a catastrophe for American Catholicism. The statistics speak for themselves: In 1965, there were 49,000 seminarians; in 2002, there were 4,700. In 1965, there were 1,556 Catholic high schools; in 2002, there were 786. Mass attendance dropped from 74 percent of self-identified Catholics in 1958 to 25 percent in 2000. The number of priests has not fallen quite as drastically — 58,000 in 1965; 45,000 in 2002 — but the median age for priests today is 56, and 16 percent of them are from foreign countries.

And yet, to hear Cunnane tell it, things are different in Los Angeles. Indeed, what he was describing sounded like a throwback to the glory years of American Catholic devotion — the baby-boom era, when the native-born children and grandchildren of Irish, Polish and Italian immigrants filled an ever-expanding number of Catholic churches, often in places where there had been no Catholic diocese before, and they clamored for more priests to say Mass, hear confession, preside over baptisms and petition for more parochial schools.

In those days, young American Catholic males answered this call in steadily increasing numbers. To be a priest was to play a central role in the life of much of both urban and suburban America, spiritually and also in the everyday concerns of parishioners. The priestly hierarchy was overwhelmingly Irish then, and it remains so today. But that is where all similarity to the church of the 1960s ends. For if the priests are cut from much the same ethnic cloth as they were a generation ago, their parishioners are not: out of the eight Masses celebrated at St. Thomas every Sunday, seven are in Spanish, as are all three of the Masses on Saturday and two out of the three daily Masses. Parish business is routinely done bilingually, and priests like Cunnane probably spend more of their working lives speaking Spanish than they do English. New seminarians in the archdiocese of Los Angeles are required to be able to say Mass in Spanish (or another language of recent Catholic immigrants, like Tagalog or Vietnamese) as well as in English.

St. Thomas is in inner-city Los Angeles, but there is nothing anomalous about what takes place there. Throughout Southern California, from the San Gabriel Valley to downtown Los Angeles and from Orange County to East L.A., almost every parish church is in the same position, or at least inclining that way. As Fernando Guerra, a professor at Loyola Marymount University, has said, churches in Los Angeles now fall into two categories: they “are either Latino or in the process of becoming Latino.” Although the trend is not as extreme in other parts of the country, it is being reproduced almost everywhere in Catholic America to one degree or another. Take, for example, another St. Thomas the Apostle Church — the one in Smyrna, Ga. There, Masses in English still predominate during the week, but on Sundays there are four English services and three Spanish ones, despite the fact that large-scale Hispanic immigration to the state is a very recent phenomenon.

Nationally, Hispanics account for 39 percent of the Catholic population, or something over 25 million of the nation’s 65 million Roman Catholics; since 1960, they have accounted for 71 percent of new Catholics in the United States. The vast increase, both proportionally and in absolute numbers, is mostly because of the surge in immigration from Latin America, above all from Mexico, that has taken place over the course of the past three decades. Today, more than 40 percent of the Hispanics residing in the United States, legally and illegally, are foreign-born, and the fate of the American Catholic Church has become inextricably intertwined with the fate of these immigrants and their descendants.

Nowhere is this clearer today than in Los Angeles. One key to the history of the city (mostly forgotten by non-Latinos) is the fact that the great migration of Mexican nationals northward in the past 30 years has a precedent in the 1920s, when waves of migrants flowed into California after the failure of the Cristero rebellion — an uprising against the abolition of many of the church’s privileges by Mexico’s ruling Institutional Revolutionary Party. The regime of President Plutarco Elías Calles suppressed the Cristeros ruthlessly. (“The Power and the Glory,” Graham Greene’s novel that follows the hunting down of a “whisky priest” by government forces, is set during the Cristero rebellion.)

On one level, this is all ancient history, yet for many new immigrants from Mexico, the echoes linger on. One battle cry of Cristerismo, as it was known, was “Long Live the Virgin of Guadalupe,” a reference to the apparition of Mary that Mexican Catholics believe appeared to a native Mexican in the 16th century. In a caustic moment, the great Mexican writer Octavio Paz suggested that Mexicans believe only in two things: the national lottery and the Virgin of Guadalupe. The fascination continues: ask any Border Patrol agent, and he will tell you that many of the illegal immigrants whom the service intercepts today wear tattoos of the Virgin of Guadalupe.

In the aftermath of their defeat, many of the Cristeros — by some estimates as much as 5 percent of Mexico’s population — fled to America. Many of them made their way to Los Angeles, where they found a protector in John Joseph Cantwell, the bishop of what was then the Los Angeles-San Diego diocese. Though he was born in Limerick, Ireland, Cantwell was determined to serve his Hispanic congregants. During the course of his tenure, Cantwell created dozens of new Hispanic parishes and missions — this at a time when race relations in L.A. were at a nadir, and the bishop’s mostly Irish congregants wanted little or nothing to do with their Mexican co-religionists.

The Cristeros arrived in the tens of thousands, but the current wave of immigrants dwarfs their numbers. Roger Mahony, the current cardinal archbishop of Los Angeles, likes to point out that the United States is reaching “the greatest levels of immigration in our nation’s history,” and to him and others in the church hierarchy, the new arrivals herald a rebirth of American Catholicism. Many within the church also say that these new arrivals could reverse the trend toward more tolerant attitudes on issues like contraception and abortion — what orthodox believers dismissively call cafeteria Catholicism. If Los Angeles is the epicenter for the astonishing Hispanicization of the American Catholic Church, it is also the site of a return to orthodoxy.

The question, though, is whether these changes represent something lasting. Is this a real turning point in the history of the American church that will lead to its enduring revival or, instead, only another cycle in that history? A cynic might observe that while the Catholic Church in Los Angeles has a great new market to serve, it has had great markets before. After all, the faith of the Irish and Italians in the 1950s seemed unbending, and yet it eroded in the aftermath of Vatican II and assimilation. Then, as now, priests routinely described their immigrant parishioners as possessed of traditional family values, a deep historical as well as spiritual connection to Catholicism and a belief that the church would look after their best interests. As Mahony himself told a group of seminarians in a recent speech, the pastoral task today among Latinos “is not much different than at other times in the church’s life in this country, such as when Catholic immigrants from Europe — mostly Irish, Italian, Polish and German immigrants — came in search of better lives and looked to the Catholic Church for assistance in their spiritual, material and legal needs.”

At times, there seems to be a certain wishful thinking in the church hierarchy’s insistence on the unshakable faith of Hispanic Catholics. At the very least, it seems to underestimate the effect assimilation has had throughout American history on religious orthodoxy. With the children and grandchildren of European immigrants, the church fought what turned out to be a losing battle against the secular mind-set. As Latino immigrants become more settled, will they not, in their turn, choose to adopt views reflective of the American norm — a norm in which religious ideals of community have tended to give way to individualism and the quest for prosperity? Monsignor Cunnane has certainly thought about the problem. Cunnane, who comes from County Sligo, acknowledges ruefully the decline of faith in his native Ireland and says of his new flock, “We’ll not let these people slip away.”

You do not have to spend much time with the Catholic hierarchy in Los Angeles to realize how deep the church’s commitment is to its Latino parishioners. The priests I spoke with praised the moral seriousness of their new parishioners and displayed a palpable exhilaration about the depth of their faith, an almost romantic, idealizing rendering of their spiritual commitment. As Cunnane put it, “The renewal we’ve experienced has not just been in numbers but in terms of vibrancy of faith and in the sense of community.”

This extraordinary flow of feeling seems to go both ways. At Spanish Masses all over Los Angeles, there is the pervasive feeling of ardent devotion among the congregants. Clichéd though it may seem, what seems evident at the end of a Mass in an immigrant church is the sheer power of the experience. Parish priests talk a great deal about the need to make their new parishioners feel at home. To do so, these priests have tried to accommodate their habits of worship. At St. Thomas, for example, a mariachi band with the musicians in full ranchers’ regalia stands behind the altar and intermittently steps forward to play. As well, fewer and fewer churches in greater Los Angeles make use of communion rails, and while this a tendency that is increasingly visible around the country, there is a particular informality and, more important, a particular intimacy to Masses in Latino churches. People bring their children, and the intermingled sounds of laughter, babies’ tears and parents’ admonitions and reassurances echo through the church as a counterpoint to service, sermon and song.

At St. Thomas, as the priest moves among his parishioners delivering the homily in Spanish, microphone in hand, he can seem to an outsider more like an evangelical pastor than a traditional Catholic priest. As he steps forward to ready communion, the priest is aided by a number of female members of the congregation. Most are elderly; all are dark-skinned — this in a congregation where people of every color come to worship. The communion itself is given with those who wish to receive it standing around the priest. From a distance, it can seem as if they are almost purposelessly milling about him, although, of course, the reverse is true.

To be sure, it is still possible in Los Angeles to hear a more formal Mass said in English, in a more hierarchical manner, notably in the new cathedral downtown. But many local parish priests have done everything they can to break down the barriers between themselves and their congregations. As Msgr. David O’Connell, who has worked as a priest in the inner city for the past 18 years and now is the pastor of St. Michael’s Church in South-Central Los Angeles, explained it to me: “The church must always be willing to ‘reread’ our own tradition in terms of those we’re serving. It’s what we’ve always done.”

Of course, the archdiocese has not severed its ties with the powerful in order to stand exclusively with the meek and the poor. The church is an institution that wields enormous political power in Los Angeles, just as it has always done. The city has a Catholic establishment, which, while not as old as that in Boston or New York, dates back at least to the 1920s, when the Doheny family held sway. Edward L. Doheny, who made his fortune when he struck oil in Los Angeles and later added to it with oil holdings in Mexico, left in his estate millions of dollars for the building of Loyola Marymount University. His wife’s rare-book collection formed the nucleus for the library at St. John’s, the diocesan seminary. The Doheny family has since largely faded from the scene, but decade in and decade out the archdiocese has maintained its influence. Emblematic of this is the fact that the list of donors who underwrote the building of the new cathedral reads like a who’s who of L.A.’s power brokers and includes many non-Catholics, most notably Eli Broad, the businessman and philanthropist, who is Jewish.

There are tensions between the church as an establishment institution and the church as the champion of poor Latinos, but they rarely surface. To the extent they are referred to at all, they are spoken of obliquely. Members of the hierarchy will tell you that there was some resistance to Spanish Masses when they started becoming the norm in the archdiocese and that there is some lingering resentment at how ubiquitous they have become. Some Latino officials, both clerical and lay, intimate that the church still has a way to go before the hierarchy properly reflects the composition of Catholic Los Angeles. And it is telling that it was far easier for Cardinal Mahony to raise money for the new cathedral than it is for him to raise money for outreach in immigrant neighborhoods or to support the social activities of parish churches.

After the pontificate of John Paul II, there is little left within the official church of the spirit of liberation theology that cut such a swath in Latin America and to some extent in the United States in the ’60s. And yet, on the grass-roots level, that spirit is not extinguished. A number of the homilies I heard could have been uttered by the leftist priests of the immediate post-Vatican II period, like Gustavo Gutíerrez, the Dominican theologian, or Ivan Illich, the radical educational theorist whom the present pope, Benedict XVI, threatened to excommunicate when, as Bishop Ratzinger, he was the head of the Vatican’s Holy Office. The organizing tool that many priests in Los Angeles use, which is to form groups of neighbors into communidades de base, or base communities, was itself one of the fundamental innovations of liberation theology. Within certain orders active in Los Angeles, above all the Jesuits, campaigns for social justice continue to loom large, and it sometimes can seem as if the social commitments of the church of an earlier era are alive and flourishing in L.A., no matter what the current Vatican line may be.

At St. Thomas the Apostle, for example, the priest at the Mass I attended preached that while the powerful might hold sway on earth, their rule was transient and their importance as nothing compared with that of Jesus and of the faith. On one level, of course, this is standard Sermon on the Mount stuff — Roman Catholic religious boilerplate. Presumably, it would be possible to hear such words in almost any Catholic church across America today. The difference, though, was the electric effect the words had on the priest’s congregants. Some of the congregation nodded emphatically; others clenched their fists; still others sighed audibly with relief. This is not to diminish the centrality of the priest’s religious message. It was a Mass, not a mass rally, after all. But the social message embedded in the scriptural passages, above all the call for justice and a validation of the dignity of the poor — that is to say of the parishioners themselves — evoked the strongest reactions.

“What the priest talked about today was what I feel” was the way one parishioner, a middle-aged immigrant, put it to me later, speaking in Spanish. “Not just about God or my children, though that is most important of all, but about the world, this world here in Los Angeles.”

“Yes,” his friend chimed in, “this unjust world.”

Had the church made a special effort with Latino immigrants, I asked? The two men I was speaking with only laughed. “The church doesn’t need to make a special effort,” one of them said. “It knows us perfectly. It’s part of us.”

Would his grandchildren feel the same way, I wondered? That perhaps depended more on the hand America dealt them than on anything the priests could do themselves. But many priests I spoke with in Los Angeles did emphasize the need for the church to adapt to their new congregants, just as Bishop Cantwell did in the 1930s. By this, they meant not only stylistically and emotionally but also in terms of the church’s social mission. The Rev. Sean Carroll, a young Jesuit who is an associate pastor of the Dolores Mission in East L.A., put it this way: “Our mission as a community of faith is to try to realize as best we can Jesus Christ’s injunction to us to make a reality of what he longed for.” He added: “Our effort is part of what it means for us to build the kingdom of God. Our engagement in civic life helps that happen. We don’t see this as separate from our religious vocation but essential to it.”

Such commitments have made priests like Carroll heroes to many in the Latino community in Los Angeles. At times, the reverence bordering on adulation with which they are treated can seem cloying. And yet, starkly put, it is a reverence based on need. The priests, for their part, are painfully aware that, as Monsignor O’Connell put it, “for many immigrants, the church is the mediating institution they trust the most, in which they feel they already have a foothold and are treated with respect.” O’Connell himself spends a great deal of his time trying to serve as a go-between linking the immigrant community, including those who are in the United States illegally, with the local authorities. Many people in his parish, he told me, “exist in an underground economy, a cash economy. They also live in a culture in which there is a lot of gang violence. What we often do is go into a neighborhood, say Mass and then talk with people about the issues that most concern them. Often, that means crime. So we will try to bring them to meet with the local police captain. The effort is meant to give them a stronger voice in the local community.”

Over the past 25 years, enormous numbers of people all over Latin America have become Protestant. In the smallest market towns of Tabasco or northeastern Brazil, you see storefront evangelical churches competing with Catholics for adherents. In Guatemala, the most extreme example of the phenomenon, 60 percent of the population is Pentecostal or charismatic. And this trend has repeated itself among Hispanics in the United States, where Pentecostalism has become an extraordinary phenomenon. Curiously, modern Pentecostalism was born in Los Angeles in 1906, when William J. Seymour, the son of former slaves, began to preach in a dilapidated building on Azusa Street in what is now the Little Tokyo neighborhood of the city. In Pentecostal literature, this is referred to as the Azusa Street revival, and from the start it involved Latinos.

Today, about 20 percent of American Hispanics are Pentecostal, and their churches, whether conventional religious buildings or simple storefronts, are found in every neighborhood in Hispanic Southern California. Pentecostal leaders insist that their numbers are growing steadily, and the church is visible in many parts of Los Angeles. For example, around MacArthur Park, which is only a short drive from St. Thomas the Apostle, Pentecostal preachers, male and female, sermonize in Spanish through tinny loudspeakers, Bibles in hand.

Some Pentecostal ministers in L.A. say that the Catholic Church is still too hierarchical. When I spoke to the Rev. Sammy Fernández of La Puerta Abierta, the Open Door Church, in East Los Angeles, he said, “People love touching God themselves.” In Catholic churches, and even in mainline Protestant churches, he added: “God is out there somewhere. He’s probably too busy to touch us little peons. But our faith” — the Pentecostal faith — “is based on the ability to express yourself freely and in the presence of the Lord.”

Fernández’s language was the language of faith, but in contrast to the Catholics I met in Los Angeles, it was also the language of capitalism. The Catholics’ vision emphasized social justice, and while it encouraged people to organize themselves, it also at least implicitly made demands on them (and had high expectations of the state). In contrast, it seemed to me that Fernández’s focus was closer to Margaret Thatcher’s or Ronald Reagan’s, and there is little question that part of the appeal of Pentecostalism generally among immigrants is its emphasis on prosperity, in contrast to the traditional Catholic emphasis on solidarity. “Whosoever will, do it yourself,” Fernández told me he liked to say to his parishioners. “Don’t bother the pastor. Do it yourself.”

Neither Protestants nor Catholics were eager to speak about the tensions between them, but those tensions are palpable in Los Angeles. “The Roman Catholic Church views us as little storefronts,” Fernández remarked. “They assume that no matter what they do, Latinos are always going to be Catholic. But we’ve showed they’re wrong. That’s just a fact.”

Fernández did not deny that he was proselytizing, though he declined to single out Catholics specifically. “We teach that we will be rewarded in heaven by the souls that we bring to the feet of the Lord,” he said. After St. Thomas was damaged in a fire in 1999, a group of Pentecostals came to preach in front of it, exhorting the church’s parishioners to join them. Proselytizing goes on all the time, on the streets, in door-to-door ministries, even in the workplace. Cunnane at St. Thomas told me that he had been in a restaurant and heard a Pentecostal and a Catholic arguing in Spanish about a biblical passage. The Pentecostal, it seemed, had brought his own Bible to work.

No Catholic I spoke with believed that the church’s history rendered it any less capable of being close to the people (a standard Pentecostal charge). They simply emphasized the goal of social justice alongside that of catechizing. Historically, this is almost certainly easier for the Catholic Church than for any other religious group, because the church has such a long-developed social gospel and such an elaborate language for advocating for it, both when it raises its own voice in the debate and when it seeks to help make the voices of its congregants heard. And contrary to what Rev. Fernández said, I saw no evidence of the church’s indifference, either in terms of its teachings — some of which, as in the case of birth control and priestly celibacy, of course makes liberal Catholics squirm — or in terms of its activism.

On the grass-roots level, that activism has taken, and continues to take, many forms, ranging from the month of prayer and fasting that the Dolores Mission initiated when an anti-immigration bill sponsored by Representative F. James Sensenbrenner Jr., Republican of Wisconsin, passed in the House of Representatives to lobbying for labor rights and immigrants’ rights in Washington to participating in the mass rallies for immigrants’ rights that took place in Los Angeles last spring. The Sensenbrenner bill was a particular goad in that it not only made illegal entry into the United States a felony but also imposed penalties on anyone who gave aid to illegal immigrants. From the priests’ perspective, this bill would have criminalized almost every aspect of their work and, as several of them remarked, would have forced them to repudiate the essence of their commitment to their parishioners. But there was no need for individual priests to announce they would defy the law (which in fact died in the Senate, thanks to the fierce opposition of Senator John McCain, as well as President Bush’s refusal to push for the bill). As Father Carroll recalled: “When the Sensenbrenner bill passed, the cardinal announced that if it became a law, he would ask his priests to disobey it — that is, to continue to provide services. What he was saying, of course, was that it was an unjust law.”

Given the dislocation that the arrival of literally millions of Hispanic immigrants has produced in Los Angeles over the course of the past 25 years, both materially and cognitively, it is probably fortunate that its archbishop during much of that time has been a man whose engagement with labor and immigrants’ rights literally dates back to his childhood. Tall, slender and economical of movement, Cardinal Mahony, who is 70, is a paradigmatic representative of American Catholicism, a man who became a priest at a time when the Irish dominated the Catholic Church both in Los Angeles and in the country as a whole. When he was made a cardinal in 1991, Mahony was viewed within the church as being comparatively conservative. Today, however, he is often described as the last of the liberal lions, a sort of sacerdotal equivalent in the College of Cardinals to Senator Edward Kennedy in the U.S. Senate. He has emphasized the church’s continuing opposition to abortion and euthanasia and has insisted that it is in this context that its support for immigrants’ rights must be understood — in other words that all form part of the church’s culture of life. Unsurprisingly, this constellation of views dovetails perfectly with that of Latino Catholics in Los Angeles, who are themselves overwhelmingly liberal economically and conservative socially.

The connection is one that the archdiocese emphasizes. For example, in its Spanish language publications, the cardinal is almost always referred to as “Rogelio Mahony,” Rogelio being the Spanish equivalent of Roger. One of Mahony’s Latino admirers, Louis Velasquez, the former head of Hispanic outreach for the archdiocese, went so far as to insist to me that “the cardinal speaks Spanish with an American accent, but he has a Mexican heart.” And in conversations in Spanish with people in parishes all over L.A., I found some version of the sentiment was widely shared and readily expressed, almost like a kind of devotion.

“The cardinal is one of us,” said an old woman after Mass at St. Thomas the Apostle. “You don’t need to ask any more.”

Her daughter, on whose arm she was leaning, nodded her assent.

Mahony was born in Hollywood in 1936. His father owned a poultry-processing plant, whose work force was overwhelmingly Latino even back in the 1940s. “Way back to my earliest years,” he told me, “I was exposed to the difficulties of immigrants. I used to work in my father’s factory as a kid, and I remember the day when we got raided by the Border Patrol. These guys came in with guns drawn as if a bank robbery was taking place. And the way they treated people! It was as if they were dirt.” After a pause, Mahony added musingly, “Even now, I can close my eyes and see it as if it were yesterday.” Then he went on, “From that day forward, I believe my life and that of immigrants have been intertwined.”

As a student at St. John’s Seminary in the early ’60s, Mahony, who was then a rarity among his fellow seminarians in that he spoke Spanish, taught catechism to the local farm workers (St. John’s is in Ventura County, in the heart of avocado-growing country, and the vast agricultural work force is almost entirely Latino). When he speaks of the farm workers, his tone becomes almost reverential. “I saw firsthand the sacrifices they were making,” he said. “I saw goodness and generosity on their faces.”

Mahony divides the history of his own engagement into two periods: the time before 1965, when, as he puts it, “I was mostly aware of the immigrants’ pastoral needs,” and the years since, when, he says, “the church became more and more involved in social-justice issues for immigrants.” Mahony himself was ordained in Fresno, another agricultural, immigrant-heavy diocese, in 1962, during the period when Cesar Chavez began his campaign for farm workers’ rights in earnest. Mahony was close to Chavez, and photographs from the time show the young priest saying Mass from the back of a flatbed truck. His involvement was such that in 1975 — Mahony was by then auxiliary bishop of Fresno — Gov. Jerry Brown named him to head up the newly formed California Agricultural Labor Relations Board. In effect, he became the lead negotiator in a series of labor disputes that culminated in the edgy peace between growers and farm workers that persists to this day.

As the first native Angeleno to be archbishop of L.A. (he was appointed in 1985), Mahony was particularly sensitive to the extraordinary demographic changes that were taking place in Southern California. He had not been in office very long when he mandated that anyone graduating from the seminary had to be able to speak a second language well enough to say Mass and hear confession in it. In practical terms, this represented a de facto “bilingualization” of the archdiocese since, while there are substantial numbers of Filipino, Vietnamese, Korean and Samoan Catholics in L.A. nowadays, the church’s base constituency is Latino, and because this is likely to remain the case for the foreseeable future, the most pressing need is for Spanish-speaking priests. Of course, since Mahony made this decision, the Hispanicization of the church has surpassed anything even he could have imagined at the time.

As a result, the church has shifted its emphasis from labor rights for legal residents of the United States to the rights of immigrants. Mahony views this mission as one that is biblically ordained. In a recent speech at St. John’s, he said, “If you look today to see who are the most vulnerable, these are the same ones who are singled out by the prophets: people in poverty, single mothers, children and immigrants.” In other words, he said, “the challenge of the prophets is for us here and now.”

For Mahony, there is nothing new about this. “The church,” he told me, “has been doing direct service for centuries and doing advocacy as well.” But there is little doubt that the Sensenbrenner bill and the rise of virulent nativist feeling in America, above all on conservative talk radio, played a role in galvanizing the Los Angeles archdiocese and Mahony personally. The church had already been campaigning hard, but, the cardinal told me, the immigration restrictionists in Congress “teed up for us a home run by passing a bill so unlike the spirit of America.”

It was not only the archdiocese that was galvanized by the Sensenbrenner bill. Last spring, a series of pro-immigration rallies swept Los Angeles. They were not directed by the church, but once the priests realized how the demonstrations were snowballing into something of great significance, the church joined a broad coalition of labor unions and activist groups that were committed to making the rallies work. As things turned out, the rallies succeeded beyond all the organizers’ expectations. And certainly no one who knew Mahony was surprised to see him at the march that took place on the afternoon of May 1 wearing not his prelate’s garb but a T-shirt that read “We Are America” in English, Spanish and Korean.

Los Angeles, of course, remains a city divided, and while to his Hispanic congregants Mahony is thought of as a hero, he is criticized by many people on the rich, Anglo West Side, Catholic and non-Catholic alike, for his focus on immigrants’ rights and, more significant, for his supposed connivance in transferring parish priests involved in the pedophilia cases — part of the sexual-abuse scandal that in recent years has hobbled the American Catholic Church and bankrupted several dioceses. Some of these critics go as far as to say that the cardinal’s commitment to the Latinos in his diocese is actually a way of deflecting attention from the scandal, and intermittently there are loud, bitter demonstrations in front of the cathedral, much to the fury of the mostly Latino worshipers. I never heard the sex-abuse issue raised once by the Hispanic Catholics I spoke to at parish churches all over the city — testimony, perhaps, to the yawning gap between West and East Los Angeles, Anglo and Hispanic.

As a practical matter, the church’s commitment to the immigrant cause now far transcends any individual’s commitment, even the cardinal’s. As Msgr. John Moretta, the pastor of the Church of the Resurrection, put it: “I think the church will always side with the rights of people to live where it’s best for them to live. We took that position when the Irish came and when the Italians came, and now we are doing the same with the Latinos.” Moretta added that the changes in some of the atmospherics of church ritual, as well as the emphasis on certain saints on the calendar rather than others, was a form of reaching out not so very different from what the church did during the great Catholic European immigration to America in the last part of the 19th century.

Moretta may well be right. But this does not make the transformation any less overwhelming. Perhaps the most resonant change of all, symbolically, is the new centrality of the Virgin of Guadalupe, adored in Los Angeles 70 years ago by the Cristeros and adored by the illegal immigrants today. The difficulty for the archdiocese is that while the Virgin of Guadalupe occupies this central place in the religious imagination of Mexicans — “who in Mexico is not a Guadalupano?” was the way Moretta put it — she has not traditionally been terribly significant either to Anglo Catholics or, more crucially, to the hundreds of thousands of Central Americans in Los Angeles. Moretta said, somewhat obliquely: “We’re making a big effort to be inclusive with the Virgin of Guadalupe. In the past, it had been Mexican parishes that mostly celebrated, but today we’ve made a big effort to reach out to Vietnamese, Koreans and Filipinos. On Dec. 3, when an annual procession in her honor takes place, and then on Dec. 12, when we celebrate her feast day, many people besides Mexicans will participate.”

The story of the Virgin of Guadalupe goes that in 1531 an indigenous man known as Juan Diego had a vision of the Virgin Mary on a hill called Tepeyac. Addressing him in Nahuatl, his native language, and appearing not as the white woman of traditional Western Christian iconography but as an Indian herself, the Virgin instructed him to build a basilica on Tepeyac. By appearing as a poor woman, appearing before a poor man rather than a Spanish prelate and speaking Nahuatl rather than Spanish, the Virgin expressed her fundamental solidarity with the poor and the weak. By extension, the “Guadalupist” perspective embodies the church’s concern for the poor.

The Catholic Church in both the United States and Latin America has been trying for some time to “de-Mexicanize” the Virgin of Guadalupe, as Louis Velasquez put it, and to give her the same central importance throughout the Americas that she had always had in Mexico. In 1999, Pope John Paul declared her to be the patron saint of the Americas. (Three years later, he canonized Juan Diego as well.) In Los Angeles, as the Rev. Scott Santarosa of the Dolores Mission put it to me, many people already experience the Virgin of Guadalupe as not just the patroness of the Americas but also as the mother of all immigrants. Indeed, that was the theme of the march in her honor a few weeks ago on Dec. 3.

What is taking place in Los Angeles is an erasing of the border between Catholicism in the United States and Catholicism in the rest of the Americas. When I asked Mahony about the Virgin of Guadalupe or the church’s view on immigration, he referred to studies and declarations issued jointly by American and Mexican prelates. In a sense, as mass immigration and economic interdependence have all but erased California’s southern border, so the Hispanicization of the American Catholic Church has made it increasingly part of a single pan-American Catholicism.

But even the Virgin of Guadalupe, powerful though she is symbolically, would be no more than a symbol were Latino Catholics not convinced of the sincerity of their church’s commitment to them. The authority of the church in L.A. finally boils down to the fact that for the poor, the church has come through and continues to come through. When all is said and done, can a poor immigrant really depend on anyone else caring about his or her immortal soul and also his or her material fate?

The Rev. Gregory Boyle, a Jesuit who ran the Dolores Mission when things were at their roughest in East L.A. and who now heads up Homeboy Industries, a group that helps gang members (their slogan is “Nothing Stops a Bullet Like a Job”), summed it up when he said, “As a priest, you’re always connecting the Gospel to people’s lives.” He continued, “Ours is not the escapism of some kinds of religion, nor is it the disconnected, boring experience I’m afraid some Catholics remember.” What inspires Boyle, he told me, is seeing women — the women who stand up to the gangbangers while their husbands, as Boyle said sarcastically, “sit in front of their televisions watching their telenovelas” — tackle some of the toughest, most pressing problems in their own communities and ask themselves, with a complete lack of sentimentality: “What would Jesus do? How would Jesus respond to a gang member?”

As Boyle puts it: “You don’t evangelize the poor; the poor evangelize you. I learned that as a young priest in Bolivia long ago, and it’s my ongoing experience. The simple truth is that here you’re called to something deeper, more radical, more credible.” So where did that leave him, I asked? Where did that leave the church? Boyle paused, and then he said: “You’re always standing with the demonized, so that the demonization stops. You’re always with the people on the outer fringes of the circle of compassion, so the circle of compassion can expand. You’re always at the margins, so the margins once and for all disappear. And you’re always with the disposable, so the people stop being disposed of.”

Boyle’s Catholicism, harking back, as it does, to liberation theology and committed to standing in solidarity with the poor, is one whose authority and relevance is immediately clear on the streets of East Los Angeles. But historically, such radical interpretations of the Sermon on the Mount have always been in conflict, within the church, with the Catholicism that tells its flock to render unto Caesar that which is Caesar’s and concedes that the poor will always be with us. It is a tension as old as the church itself. For the moment, the church in Los Angeles is closer to Greg Boyle’s vision than it has been for many decades. The question, of course, is whether an increasingly conservative hierarchy, both in Rome and in the United States, will choose to allow it to remain so or will alter its course. It is this decision that will in the end determine whether the Hispanicization of the American church signals its rebirth or is a false dawn after all.

 

David Rieff, a contributing writer, reported for the magazine on the recent elections in Bolivia and Mexico.

Posted by M at 05:45:29 | Permalink | No Comments »

The world just about fits in this little music box

IPods can lead you on tours, give directions to restaurants, navigate the subway, plus provide that old standard: tunes.

By Logan Kugler, Special to The Times
December 24, 2006

MORE than 60 million iPods have been sold since the first model of Apple’s portable music player made its debut in 2001, giving rise to a generation hooked to — and on — its earbuds. For travelers, though, the iPod can be more than a passive plaything that keeps the world at bay.

Depending on the model, your iPod can find restaurants, juggle reservations, track down tours and attractions, help you navigate subway systems and, of course, keep you entertained.

To make it work for you while on the road, you’ll need to download listings and other information from the Internet before you leave home.


Here’s how to get more out of your iPod than the latest Snow Patrol CD. (Note: The iPod Shuffle, which has no screen, is not usable for these services):

*

Find tours and attractions

Wouldn’t it be great to have a complete guide to your destination in the palm of your hand? With programs such as AudioSteps, BlueBrolly and PodGuides, you can.

AudioSteps (www.audiosteps.com) offers digital audio walking tours of New Orleans, Philadelphia, Sacramento, San Francisco and Washington, D.C. For those traveling to London, BlueBrolly (www.bluebrolly.com ) has a great selection of audio walks for areas including Westminster, Soho, Chinatown, Greenwich, Covent Garden, St Paul’s and more.

PodGuides, at http://www.podguides.net , puts a spin on things by offering a digital map and some small pictures, along with the audio tracks explaining what you’re seeing as you walk along. It’s a new idea, so only a few guides are available on PodGuides, but the ones currently available, such as Brussels and the Opal Coast in France, are quite good. It’s like having your own tour guide.

*

Find your way around

Getting places can get confusing. So, download iSubwayMaps’ maps (www.isubwaymaps.com) before you go. Showing the underground systems for Tokyo, Chicago, San Francisco and more, they definitely come in handy and are easy to read with the video iPod’s 2 1/2 -inch screen.

Also available for download is iPod + Yahoo! (www.ipod-directions.com) Yahoo Directions, which is similar to MapQuest.

Not only do you get pictures, but you also get text describing exactly how to go. That way, you can impress your friends with your almost uncanny ability to know how to get exactly where they want to go.

They’ll think you’re a genius.

*

Getting hungry?

If your hotel doesn’t have a concierge, finding a nice local restaurant can be a challenge. You might decide to cruise the area looking for a suitable place to dine, but for those of us who aren’t as adventurous, head back up to your room and grab your iPod.

With it and Restaurant Spy (www.restaurantspy.com), you can browse hundreds of restaurant listings for almost anywhere your travels take you. But because Restaurant Spy doesn’t cover every area of the world, you can also run a search on Google for keyword “CITY NAME restaurant iPod,” which will often turn up a list of local restaurants that you can download to your iPod.

*

Keep track of reservations

Planning a big trip means handling numerous reservations. Your iPod can help. It can synchronize with your scheduling program — whether you use Microsoft Outlook on a Windows PC, or iCal on a Mac.

It’s a fairly straightforward process. Input your reservation dates and times for your trip, then sync with your iPod. When the day arrives for dinner at your favorite multi-star restaurant, your iPod will alert you. And that’s a good thing, especially when the restaurant requires a credit card to hold the reservation, as many now do.

*

That’s entertainment

Airline travel means you often have spare time on your hands where you’re doing nothing more than waiting in line at Starbucks or sitting in a cramped seat at 35,000 feet.

Having an iPod close by can help pass those in-between times. Check out features such as viewing photos, watching movies, playing games and, of course, listening to your favorite tunes. Learn more at: http://www.apple.com/support/ipod/howto/ .

Of course, don’t forget the main reason you bought your iPod in the first place. More and more chains are offering docking stations so you can listen to the music on speakers in your hotel room.

For example, Hilton is building the docks into alarm clocks being installed throughout the chain. Other chains adopting the technology include Hyatt and Marriott.

Individual hotels are also offering the service, including the Crescent in Beverly Hills and the Tribeca Grand Hotel in New York.

Posted by M at 02:19:46 | Permalink | No Comments »

Sunday, December 24, 2006

As the Sun Sets, a Parisian’s Masterpiece Comes to Life

Ed Alcock for The New York Times

“I knew a little bit about electricity, and I was an amateur photographer. So he invented a job for me.” - FRANÇOIS JOUSSE

Published: December 23, 2006

Troubleshooter for City of Light

FRANÇOIS JOUSSE paced along the south roof of Notre-Dame, chain-smoking French cigarillos as he waited for darkness to fall.

 

Suddenly, the southern facade of the cathedral lit up, its pillars, gargoyles and flying buttresses adorned in white.

“Ah, this gives me such great pleasure!” he said, warming his hands in one of the spotlight canisters. “I truly am blessed with the most splendid job.”

Indeed, Mr. Jousse, a 64-year-old engineer, is the troubleshooter for the City of Light. As chief engineer for doctrine, expertise and technical control, he is responsible for lighting 300 of the monuments, official buildings, bridges and boulevards of the French capital.

Working with a staff of 30 decorative lighting specialists at a City Hall annex, Mr. Jousse helps create new lighting projects, lectures experts, negotiates with powerful players like the Roman Catholic Church and resolves technical problems at sites throughout the city.

One recent evening, Mr. Jousse was summoned urgently to an alleyway filled with garbage in a gritty neighborhood in the 19th Arrondissement. He had tried to mount a projector to shine one of his creations — images of six decorative windows he had photographed — onto a bare concrete wall there.

One was half-opened, with a red drape; another showed the silhouette of a black cat from an iconic late 19th-century poster.

But the images needed to be enlarged to match the real windows nearby. The deputy mayor of the neighborhood wanted the wall ready for Christmas. After a struggle to mount a different lens, he settled on a temporary compromise: the windows were enlarged, but two of them had to go because the existing lens could accommodate only four of that size.

“Oh, no, we can’t lose the cat!” he said. “It’s back to the lab.”

MR. JOUSSE became one of the world’s foremost urban lighting experts by accident. A native of Paris, he landed a job in 1963 with the city’s engineering division after graduating from college, helping widen and deepen the city’s canals. He later had jobs supervising 3,000 garbage collectors and creating pedestrian streets.

In 1981, a supervisor asked him to change course once again. “He wanted someone who would not be caught up in daily work and could think about light,” Mr. Jousse said. “I knew a little bit about electricity, and I was an amateur photographer. So he invented a job for me.”

At the time, most of the Paris monuments were either unlighted or only crudely illuminated with big spotlights that shone directly onto the facades. Mr. Jousse sought out urban architects and theatrical lighting experts for ideas and technical training.

He eventually created a research laboratory for the city of Paris, where he and a team began to create fixtures and to experiment with the color and intensity of light. The city now spends about $260,000 a day on its lighting.

But that does not mean everything runs smoothly. The $2.1 million project to redesign the lighting of Notre-Dame — most recently the lighting of the south facade, which was inaugurated last week — has involved heartbreaking compromises.

For half a century, the only hint of light on the south facade came from spotlights on the far side of the Seine River. The new lighting scheme was intended to allow spectators to discover the cathedral’s facade slowly, through the power and drama of the details.

But as a national monument, Notre-Dame belongs to the French state, which has the right to veto any design decision. Stones could not be moved, walls could not be drilled. All material and equipment had to be moved in and out of Notre-Dame at night to avoid annoying tourists.

A bigger headache came from the Catholic clergy. The designers had planned to light the facade’s rose window from within, so that it could be seen in full color by passers-by. The priests called the idea sacrilegious.

“They said we wanted to perturb the faithful,” Mr. Jousse said. “They accused us of trying to turn Notre-Dame into Disneyland.”

Then, just days before the inauguration of the new lighting of the south facade, Mr. Jousse realized it was marred by what he called “holes of blackness.” The solution came to him on a trip to the annual lighting festival in Lyon.

Lyon has its own school of lighting, a pointillist approach that uses small spotlights to highlight the details of its Baroque architecture for dramatic effect. The Paris school, by contrast, takes a holistic approach that bathes structures in warm, even light.

Urgent consultations followed. Until late into the night before the inauguration, electricians were busy bolting in makeshift light fixtures.

“Now, the light is stronger at the top, so that you feel that you are moving closer to heaven,” he said.

MR. JOUSSE certainly does not have the look of a senior City Hall bureaucrat. He keeps his gray and yellow beard long and bushy. He does not remember the last time he wore a tie. He prefers to drink a dark French beer with his workers than to sip fine wine at City Hall soirees.

Tooling around town in a small, white Renault sedan with a special plate in the windshield, he parks wherever he wants — even on the cobblestone walkway at Notre-Dame and on the quay in front of the Musée d’Orsay.

He rattles off details about lighting history: how the adorning of Paris in light began in the 14th century when Philip V the Tall ordered candles to be lighted in three sites every night, how the Paris lamppost was invented in the 18th century, how one way Paris earned the nickname City of Light was from the artificial electrical light displays at the Paris Fair of 1900.

He recalls the time a few years back when he and a team were experimenting with light on Sacré Coeur Basilica in Montmartre and colored it mauve. “The priest came running out and ordered us to turn it off,” Mr. Jousse said. “We just wanted to have some fun. But Paris is a very serious city.”

The 20,000 flashing lights of the Eiffel Tower (they dazzle for 10 minutes every hour on the hour until after 1 a.m.) are, for him, “a visual clock, like the bell of a church — every hour the light sounds the hour.”

He shrieked when he saw for the first time that the Grand Palais, which belongs to the state, not the city, had been lighted up in bright blue-green. He stopped the car, pulled a camera and tripod out of the trunk and started taking pictures. “I hope it’s only for Christmas!” he said. “It’s so Las Vegas!”

By contrast, he shows off the lighting of the Petit Palais, which belongs to Paris, just across the street. Its spotlights have been hidden in the tops of the streetlamps. He attracted pedestrians to the ominously dark sidewalk along the Boulevard de Bercy under the A4 highway, lighting it in bright blue.

Mr. Jousse’s goal is to steep the city’s structures in history and integrate them into their surroundings rather than to treat them as individual jewels that should be showcased.

“The secrets are very simple,” he said. “Blend light with the surroundings. Don’t annoy the birds, the insects, the neighbors or the astronomers. If City Hall gave me money to do whatever I want, I’d teach people about the beauty of light. I’d make Parisians the owners of their light.”

Posted by M at 04:47:55 | Permalink | No Comments »

Friday, December 22, 2006

Quick and Easy, for a Price

Published: December 21, 2006, New York Times

YOU can tell it’s thicker the minute you open the can,” said Ernest Rezik, a contractor who has painted thousands of walls in Manhattan, Queens and Brooklyn.

Evan Sung for The New York Times

THE COVER-UP To test claims about a new paint from Benjamin Moore, the author set his young sons to work decorating his living room walls.

Photographs by Evan Sung for The New York Times

Then he brought in a professional painter, top, to cover different areas of the mural with a single coat of the new paint or of standard latex paint. When the mural was covered, the judges were ready to render their verdict.

Mr. Rezik was about to paint a wall in my apartment using Aura, a new paint from Benjamin Moore that the company claims can cover most surfaces in a single coat. The paint, which was introduced on the West Coast in September and will be available on the East Coast in late January, is also supposed to release fewer environment-damaging volatile organic compounds, or V.O.C.’s, than other paints.

To test the company’s claim that changing the color of a wall — even from black to white — can be accomplished with one coat of Aura (or at the most two, according to the company), I asked my 4-year-old sons, Aaron and Jacob, to paint a mural in a corner of my apartment. The result, reminiscent of the work of Paul Klee, was a mass of purple, brown and dark red blobs (or as Benjamin Moore calls them, Chambord, Carob and Moroccan Spice).

Two days later, Mr. Rezik arrived to repaint the wall white. First, he dipped a roller into a can of Benjamin Moore’s Regal, its most popular line of latex paint, which costs less than $30 a can in the New York area. It covered pretty well, but bits of my sons’ handiwork were still visible.

Then he tried the new paint, which lists for $55 a can, on another section of the wall. The dark colors disappeared immediately. When it was time to paint the baseboard, where remnants of my sons’ artwork had dripped, Mr. Rezik said he really noticed the difference. Because Aura is thicker than regular latex paint, he said, “you can control the amount of paint on the brush better” — meaning you can use more of it without worrying about drips. He was able to cover several purple spots easily in one go-over.

Aura also dries in minutes, which I confirmed with my own fingers, and is practically odor-free. Carl Minchew, the company’s director of product development, claims that some customers have painted their dining rooms and then had guests for dinner the same day.

At Benjamin Moore’s research center, in Flanders, N.J., Mr. Minchew showed me the results of various tests that, he said, demonstrated Aura’s durability, including one in which a blue enamel surface was painted white with Aura and then scrubbed at least 1,000 times, with little apparent damage. “Obviously, if we had flunked, I wouldn’t show you this,” he said cheerfully.

Mr. Minchew said an important impetus for developing the new paint came from an increase in governmental restrictions on V.O.C.’s, “especially in California, which has the most stringent regulations.” As with auto emissions, California took the lead in regulating V.O.C. emissions a few years ago. Among other things, the state restricted paint stores from ordering new supplies of many oil-based paints (which, although long prized by house painters for their appearance and durability, emit considerably more V.O.C.’s than latex paints), and more recently mid-Atlantic states, including New York, have followed suit.

Also important to the formulation of Aura, according to Mr. Minchew, was the problem of V.O.C.’s in colorants. Until the 1970s, he said, most paints in the United States were sold off the shelf in stock colors. But as consumers began to demand more color choice, the model shifted to one in which stores stocked cans of “paint base” and added tiny drops of colorants to create thousands of different hues.

Companies began producing colorants that would work with any paint base, oil or latex, adding a wide variety of chemical solvents to make the colorants adaptable. These solvents contained V.O.C.’s and “didn’t necessarily make the best paint,” said Barry Chadwick, Benjamin Moore’s vice president for product development.

Mr. Minchew said, “We realized that if we made a colorant that only has to go into latex base, and a latex base that only has to work with that colorant, we could make both of them better,” while using fewer V.O.C.-emitting compounds.

To sell Aura, Benjamin Moore will need the cooperation of retailers, who will have to decide whether to invest in new machines — which can cost $10,000 or more — that dispense the new paint. (Because Aura colorants dry so quickly, they harden before they can get through a conventional paint dispenser; Mr. Minchew’s team spent three years working with a Finnish company to create a new machine that uses water to keep its nozzles moist.)

Because it costs far more than a paint like Regal, which is already considered high-end, Aura has a marketing mountain to climb with consumers. Mr. Chadwick said it has been doing well on the West Coast.

Allen Blanson, the assistant manager of East Bay Paints in Albany, Calif., said Aura “has been flying off the shelves” at the store, an independent business that sells Benjamin Moore and Pratt & Lambert paints. But Benjamin Moore executives are waiting to see how East Coast consumers will react to the “super premium” pricing.

Michael Pintchik, the president of the family-owned store in Brooklyn that bears his name, said that he was initially concerned that the price would discourage consumers, but now he thinks they may actually save money by using the paint, since one gallon may do the work of two. Mr. Minchew acknowledged that Benjamin Moore could end up selling less paint. “We’d like to think we’re going to get enough people buying our paint, instead of someone else’s, to make up the difference,” he said.

Posted by M at 05:42:16 | Permalink | No Comments »

Thursday, December 21, 2006

A hippo critical situation

The ornery beasts were brought to Colombia to grace a drug lord’s estate. He is long gone, but they have thrived — and outgrown their welcome.

By Chris Kraul, Times Staff Writer
December 20, 2006

Puerto Triunfo, Colombia — HACIENDA Napoles was Pablo Escobar’s pleasure palace, a 5,500-acre estate where the notorious drug lord reigned over million-dollar cocaine deals, parties with underage girls and visits by shadowy men of power.

Escobar lived large here in his lush fiefdom 100 miles east of Medellin, far from the teeming slums where he began his life of crime. He built a bullring, an airstrip, an ersatz Jurassic Park with half a dozen immense concrete dinosaurs. He stocked a private wild animal park with hundreds of animals, including elephants, camels, giraffes, ostriches and zebras. He installed four hippos in one of the estate’s 12 man-made lakes.

Today, Hacienda Napoles is in ruins, taken over by jungle foliage and bats. The sprawling Spanish-style mansion has been gutted, scavenged by treasure hunters looking for stashes of gold and cash buried under the floors. Escobar is long gone, cut down in a hail of police gunfire.

But the hippos are still here.

Problem herd

More than 15 years after the government took control of Hacienda Napoles, the elephants, giraffes and zebras have long since disappeared, given away to Colombian zoos or left to die.

But the hippos were never claimed because they were too large and ornery to move. Now the original four have multiplied to 16 and, far from starving to death, as some expected, they have learned to forage like cows. In fact, local authorities say they represent a safety hazard — and are standing in the way of plans to redevelop the late drug lord’s estate.

At night, several of them emerge from their watery habitats and roam for miles looking for grass to munch on. Three months ago, a male hippo was shot to death by ranchers after he wandered three miles from the rest of the herd to a neighboring stream.

Weighing up to 3 tons, the hippos are not constrained by ordinary barbed-wire fences or gates.

“The problem is, you cannot manage them,” said Francisco Sanchez, environmental officer of Puerto Triunfo municipality, which has control of the mansion and the former zoo area of the property. “They are too big and wild.”

Sanchez said Escobar bought the original four from a dealer in New Orleans for $3,000 each.

Among themselves, hippopotamuses, whose name means “river horse,” are gregarious animals, living in herds of as many as 40 in their natural habitat: the rivers, lakes and swamps of a dozen African countries. They live as long as 50 years and the males grow to a hefty size, sometimes 12 feet long and 5 feet tall. They vie with the rhinoceros for the title of second-largest land animal after the elephant.

They spend most of their lives submerged in water to stay cool and prevent sunburn. As hulking as they are, hippos can outrun humans on land, which helps explain the periodic deaths of unsuspecting safari travelers in Africa.

That speed, and their highly aggressive disposition whenever their turf is invaded, makes them a threat and is the main reason authorities are offering the animals, or at least most of them, free to anyone who will come and take them off their hands.

Although there have been expressions of interest from environmental and research groups from Central America to Africa, no one has made a commitment to take them, mainly because of the cost and difficulty of transporting the beasts.

Sanchez says some of the animals may have to be shot if no takers are found.

“They say the meat is very tasty and the teeth are worth a lot,” he said with a smile, only half-joking.

The local government has begun to float the possibility it might have to reduce or exterminate the herd, an idea that probably will not sit well with the locals, many of whom regard the animals as part of their identity.

FOR Escobar, the zoo may have fulfilled some childhood dream — and provided diversion from the grim, murderous business of running a drug empire. Born in the village of Rio Negro, near Medellin, Escobar began his criminal life as a petty street thug and car thief, graduating to cocaine smuggling as U.S. demand exploded in the 1970s. He muscled his way to the top by bribing, intimidating or killing government officials and competing narcos. At the peak of his power, Escobar was raking in billions of dollars a year, sinking a sizable chunk of it into building Napoles, his Xanadu.

The drug lord financed public housing and other Medellin public works and made a successful run for Congress. But after he ordered the 1984 killing of Colombian Justice Minister Rodrigo Lara Bonilla, who had threatened to extradite Escobar to face U.S. drug-trafficking charges, the state declared war. By the time he was hunted down and killed in Medellin in December 1993, the armed forces had controlled his beloved Napoles for two years.

THE issue of what to do with the hippos has come to a head because after years of ownership disputes, the state finally prevailed against the drug lord’s wife and two children, who claimed the estate by inheritance. The Colombian government plans a medium-security prison on one 800-acre chunk of Hacienda Napoles, and several hundred acres more will become an environmental reserve.

The Puerto Triunfo municipality wants to make improvements to increase tourism. The plan includes turning the lake occupied by the hippos into an aquatic park — a proposal the fiercely territorial animals are not likely to warm to. Under this scenario, a few hippos would be kept and moved to another lake.

But those plans are on hold until the hippos’ fate is resolved.

Half a dozen residents of the nearest town, Doradal, were ambivalent about what to do with the animals, saying that they are good for tourism, but that they should be better controlled.

Claudia Quintero, a weekend manager at Hotel del Lago, opposite the entrance of Hacienda Napoles, said she has yet to see a hippo wandering at night, though some of her neighbors have.

“The first time I see a hippo walking up here,” she said, “I’m taking my daughter and leaving.”

No hippo attacks on people have been reported.

Restaurant owner Leonel Villegas said the hippos should be left alone and that the government should invest in “making it even better for tourists; but don’t just give them away. At least get the meat from them.”

ESCOBAR, once thought to be among the richest men in the world, owned dozens of houses. But the mansion here was his dream home. Now, it has become a symbol of the fleeting nature of wealth and power.

The roof has fallen in, with bits of shattered roof tiles spread everywhere. Escobar’s second-floor bedroom has been taken over by plants, including bamboo and palmettos. The windows, plumbing and fixtures were looted long ago, but the floors of many rooms are still being dug up by treasure hunters. Fast-moving files of ants seem to be everywhere, transporting their bits of cargo. The three-tiered swimming pool is covered with a thick coat of algae.

Accentuating the ambience of a fallen empire are the charred remains of a dozen of Escobar’s prized classic cars, which were burned in Medellin by the so-called pepes, or People Persecuted by Pablo Escobar, shortly before the drug lord was killed. A local official couldn’t explain why the hulks were brought here.

Visible past the pool and through the overgrowth, the airstrip seems to be Napoles’ one remaining useful asset: A Medellin cement company uses it for three weekly flights to shuttle executives in and out of the area.

During Escobar’s heyday, when he purportedly controlled half of all cocaine sales to the United States, the strip saw the disembarkation of unimaginable amounts of cash generated by his drug deals.

A couple of zebras still wandered the grounds until a year or so ago, Sanchez said, but they have disappeared.

“The hippopotamuses are all that are left. It’s because they have adapted to the conditions here and because they have no predators, except man,” Sanchez said. “If no one comes forward, we will have to take drastic action.”

Posted by M at 05:58:21 | Permalink | No Comments »

Georgia towns stung after being wiped off map

The state removed some 500 small communities because the map had become too difficult to read.

By Patrik Jonsson| Staff writer of The Christian Science Monitor

 

ATLANTAWith the sweep of a cartographer’s hand, Ty Ty is gone. So is Po Biddy Crossroads, Sandtown, and Martinez. Poetry Tulip and Dewy Rose? Vanished.

 

At least in Georgia, the small hamlet is not only in danger of blowing away for lack of economic opportunity, it’s also disappearing from view - at least on paper. In a move that some critics say smacks of urban conceit about rural America, the Georgia Department of Transportation (DOT) has decided to - without a public discussion - wipe nearly 500 tiny towns, nooks, and crossroads from the Official Highway and Transportation map, 1.2 million of which are printed and snapped up annually.

For the state, it’s a pragmatic decision - the map had become too hard to read. But the action has triggered a deeper debate about how Americans view one another and their communities, and the importance tiny towns put on being recognized, if not in public discourse, at least by cartographers. Those designations are, for some, proof of their existence.

“[Being on a map] gives you a sense of place, that you’re tied to the earth,” says Craig Remington, director of the cartography lab at the University of Alabama in Tuscaloosa. “Nobody likes to be told they live nowhere.”

To be sure, small towns - whether Rocky Mountain mining villages or Kansas crossroads - sometimes do blow away, leaving only stone foundations and forgotten dreams, or curlicues of kudzu overwhelming chimneys and windows. Ten or 20 “disappeared” towns a year is average for a medium-sized state, cartographers say. But 500 is “unusual,” Mr. Remington says. So far, mapmaker Rand McNally isn’t planning on following suit, the Associated Press reports.

But in places such as Hickory Level - which just bought six new street signs for its unincorporated limits in Carroll County, just west of Atlanta - the state’s move is seen as an affront that runs counter to economic development plans for rural reaches.

“Folks kind of feel like they got a bad deal from DOT on this,” says state Rep. Tim Bearden, who represents Hickory Level. “If you want to bring your business into the state of Georgia, if you open a map and look at Carroll County, what you see now is that there’s basically nothing there.”

On a personal level, the decision stings more deeply, says Kip Burke, news editor at the News-Reporter in Wilkes County, Ga., where the towns of Aonia and Sandtown fell off the map. It reconfirms that urban dwellers often marginalize their country brethren, he says.

“I think one factor is the attitude inside Atlanta,” says Mr. Burke. “If it’s outside Atlanta, it doesn’t matter, [because] those places aren’t real anyway. They cruise through the countryside, see what looks like a backdrop to the music in their heads, and they don’t realize that nothing-looking chunk of land may have been in a family for generations, and it really is the center of someone’s universe.”

For the cartographers at DOT, it’s a no-win situation. Users were complaining that the increasingly cluttered map with itty-bitty two-point type was illegible. The decision to remove 519 localities amounted to a housecleaning.

“A lot of people take towns off part and parcel, and we had not been taking any off over time. The big issue was to try to find criteria that could stand up,” says Karlene Barron, a DOT spokeswoman. “We took unincorporated areas and areas that were not communities anymore, and they added up to a large number. We wanted not to do it willy-nilly. We wanted to do something that was fair, though nobody saw it in any way, shape, or form as fair.”

The state has already restored 32 towns big enough to have their own zip codes to the 2007 map, which debuts in January. But the backlash has caused the state to do some rethinking about the 2008 publication, says Ms. Barron.

The Peach State mapmakers plan to reconvene after the dust settles to discuss new criteria that could include historic and economic factors, and whether a place has significant landmarks. “We are working very hard to appease the communities that feel like our main goal was to wipe them off the face of the earth, which it was not,” Barron says.

But cartographers agree that inherent in a map is prejudice toward its usability and purpose. To that end, maps do give insight into the mind of their creator.

“A cartographer tries to create a visual hierarchy with a map,” says Remington. “You’re trying to make the elements of the map that are important for the map’s purpose stand out, and you’re trying to make the less significant but still necessary features work their way into the background. It’s simply a conscious decision to how far you let things fade before they disappear.”

Posted by M at 05:51:36 | Permalink | No Comments »

Wednesday, December 20, 2006

Railroad boom hits environmental, ‘not in my backyard’ snags

(Photograph) LOCAL PRESSURE: Rooster Cogburn is fighting a plan for Union Pacific rail company to build a six-mile rail yard across the interstate from his ostrich farm in Picacho, Ariz.
ROBERT HARBISON/SPECIAL TO THE CHRISTIAN SCIENCE MONITOR

As US railroads try to meet demand and reduce reliance on trucks, landowners and environmentalists worry about pollution.

By Ron Scherer | Staff writer of The Christian Science Monitor

PICACHO, ARIZ.From his ostrich ranch, Rooster Cogburn looks out over a broad mesa covered with cactuses, pecan groves, and alfalfa. In the distance, the granite summit of Picacho Peak towers over the Sonoran desert.

“It’s beautiful. It’s tranquil. No one lives out there,” he says.

But, the view could be changing.

 

Across the interstate from his ranch, the Union Pacific (UP) railroad wants to build a six-mile switching yard, part of an effort to improve its national freight service. And, this month, local officials rezoned some 10,000 acres from development sensitive to heavy industrial. They envision businesses springing up around the new yard.

Burgeoning business is pushing railroads into the middle of sticky environmental disputes. On one side are environmental groups, ranchers, and landowners concerned about potential chemical spills and air pollution. On the other side are rail companies stretched to the limit - barely able to provide communities with goods. Their strategy - with national implications for reducing oil usage - is to carry more of the containers now moved by long haul truckers. But, to do this they need to build more rail yards in places such as Picacho.

Urban areas are also becoming wary about freight traffic moving through their communities. Nine major US cities are considering legislation that would require railroads to reroute hazardous chemicals - a move that would probably require building more trackage in suburban and rural areas. Last week, both the US Department of Transportation and the Department of Homeland Security introduced legislation regarding shipping hazardous materials. And rail security experts anticipate that the Democratic-led Congress will look more closely at the issue.

With large open spaces in shorter supply and business booming, railroads are locked into disputes over land use - even in what used to be the wide-open West.

The strategy of rail companies - with implications for reducing oil usage - is to carry more of the containers moved by long haul truckers. But, to do this they need to build more rail yards.

“We are all an advocate of increased rail transportation in this country because in part it keeps a significant number of trucks off the interstate highway system,” says Cecil Steward, dean emeritus at the University of Nebraska College of Architecture in Lincoln and an expert on sustainability. “However, that does not give the railroads carte blanche to screw up the environment in a similar way the highway system screws it up.”

(Photograph) LOCALS RESIST: Arizona activists are fighting a plan for Union Pacific to build a rail yard near Picacho Peak State Park (in the back-ground).
ROBERT HARBISON/SPECIAL TO THE CHRISTIAN SCIENCE MONITOR

The scrutiny comes at a time when railroads across the nation are building new rail yards - with local citizens concerned about pollution and additional truck traffic. That’s the case in Gardner, Kan., where Burlington Northern Santa Fe railway is planning a $1 billion train terminal and warehouse center, in Los Angeles where there are proposals by BNSF and UP to build new yards, and in suburban Atlanta where recently local residents unsuccessfully fought the development of a 450-acre Norfolk Southern rail yard.

The growth of the yards is actually part of a change taking place in the rail industry. It is displacing the long-haul truck industry in moving containers. “We move the long haul, then a trucking company does the short haul,” says Pat Hiatte, a spokesman for BNSF in Ft. Worth, Texas.

But the railroads then need large yards to either unload or rearrange. Often the rail facilities are combined with warehouses for easy unloading and storage before goods are loaded onto trucks headed to storage or other trains headed to other states. That’s the plan in Picacho.

Many residents - including Cogburn and members of a local group called Save the Peak! - are not opposed to the Union Pacific building a switch yard, as long as it’s somewhere else. “I’m not against growth,” Cogburn says. “But there is so much horrible, miserable land, you don’t need to set it down right over there.”

“Right over there” is state-owned land currently leased by Herb Kai, who grows cotton, grains, and pecans on it.

Mr. Kai, who also supports a rail yard somewhere else, says “the railroad would have to prove 100 percent that Picacho Peak is the only place this could go.”

The Union Pacific, headquartered in Omaha, Neb., agrees that Kai’s piece of property is unique, in large part because it is remote. The railroad tried to avoid locations too close to hospitals, schools, residential developments, and water resources.

(Map) RICH CLABAUGH - STAFF

And a key reason for choosing Picacho: It’s flat. Level land means it’s easier and safer to move trains around, says Mark Davis, a UP spokesman.

In Casa Grande, about 20 miles north of the peak, the local economic development group sees the proposed rail yard as a way to get new warehousing jobs for companies that would use the railroad to bring products into the region.

“This should be built to bring in hundreds of super-deluxe jobs and provide the transportation infrastructure necessary to enhance and maintain Arizona’s economy,” says Paul Ringer, interim director of the Casa Grande Valley Economic Development Foundation.

But the proposed rail yard will also sit on top of an aquifer that could be important for the future expansion of nearby Tucson. “We’re storing that water for future generations,” says Kai. “People are concerned that any pollution will contaminate it.”

That’s a valid concern, says Fred Millar, an expert on rail security and safety issues.

“Has anyone inquired of the Union Pacific what hazardous cargos they bring or plan to bring into this area?” he asks. “As an informed citizen, we know that anytime rail yards are redeveloped, you have to do toxic cleanup.”

Davis says Union Pacific is “well aware” of the aquifer. And, to cut down on noise the railroad plans to install new hydraulic brakes that will eliminate the high-pitched squeal that often emanates from rail yards.

(Photograph) A SIGN OF OPPOSITION: A billboard from a local group protests the proposal.
ROBERT HARBISON/SPECIAL TO THE CHRISTIAN SCIENCE MONITOR

Environmentalists are also concerned about a population of bats that reside in caves in the nearby mountains. According Tim Smith of the state Game and Fish Department in Tucson, there are historical records of a colony of long-nosed bats, a federally endangered species. “As with any wildlife, there would be concerns about loss of habitat and disturbance of the roost site,” he says. “You want to minimize any impact that you can.”

Davis of Union Pacific says he is not aware of the bats. But “we will definitely look into it.”

But, Cogburn’s daughter, Dana Barrett, says UP was told about the bats in a hearing. “We can’t seem to get anyone interested in protecting these bats,” she says.

Posted by M at 06:00:40 | Permalink | No Comments »

Tuesday, December 19, 2006

Italy village gets ’sun mirror’


The giant mirror positioned on a hill

Viganella marked its “day of the light” on Sunday



A sun-deprived village in the Italian Alps has come up with a novel solution to fix the problem - by installing a giant mirror.

The mirror - an eight-by-five metre (26×16ft) sheet of steel - was placed on a nearby peak to reflect sunlight onto Viganella’s main square below.

The computer-operated mirror will now be constantly following the sun’s path.

Viganella sits at the bottom of a steep valley, and surrounding mountains cut off direct sunlight during the winter.

The towering mirror was installed on Sunday.

“It wasn’t easy,” Village Mayor Pierfranco Midali told Italy’s Ansa news agency.

“We had to find the proper material, learn about the technology and especially find the money,” he said.

The project cost some 100,000 euros (£67,110) and was financed by the regional authorities and a bank.

‘Like Siberia’

Viganella’s problem is that it was built at the bottom of a very steep-sided Alpine valley, right up against the Swiss border.

Viganella Mayor Pierfranco Midali holds the remote control computer as the giant mirror positioned on the hill behind

The mirror is remotely controlled by a computer

The southern side of the valley is so sheer that on 11 November the sun disappears and does not reappear until 2 February.

Not a single ray of sunlight falls on Viganella in the weeks in between.

“It’s like Siberia,” one of the village’s nearly 200 residents has said.

However, the south-facing slopes to the north do get sunshine just a few hundred metres above the village.

So the mirror was mounted on the mountainside to reflect sunlight into the village’s main piazza.

infographic
Posted by M at 07:49:19 | Permalink | No Comments »

Monday, December 18, 2006

Tilting at Lampposts

Richard Perry/The New York Times
Susan Harder in her East Village apartment: “It seems like everything we do is fear-based.”
By BEN GIBBERD
Published: December 17, 2006

Susan Harder, a former photo gallery owner who has lived for decades in the same walk-up apartment on East 10th Street, is the first to acknowledge that she is all of 57 years old, but she emanates an air of schoolgirlish mischief. Her blue eyes twinkle, her blond ponytail bounces, and she punctuates her sentences with what can only be described as giggles.

Richard Perry/The New York Times

BROADWAY NEAR FULTON STREET “It’s Obi-Wan Kenobi’s swords!” Ms. Harder says.

Nevertheless, unlike many schoolgirls, Ms. Harder is a woman with a mission.

The mission, which has absorbed her energies 40 hours a week for the past decade, is the fight against what is known by the somewhat anodyne term “light pollution” or, as Ms. Harder puts it with typical vigor, “our insane, just insane love of lighting absolutely everything up.”

From streetlights to billboards to parking lots to private properties, she contends, in cities, suburbs and rural areas, the country is awash in excess light. This light, she claims, squanders money and energy, upsets the ecological balance, causes accidents, makes people sick and diminishes the beauty of the environment, both natural and man-made. The problem may be especially noticeable during the dark days of winter — Thursday is the winter solstice, the shortest day of the year — but in the eyes of crusaders like Ms. Harder, it exists year round.

“One day,” she said on a recent evening, over dinner in a small restaurant on Second Avenue across the street from her apartment, “we’ll look back at light pollution in the same way we do the recycling or ecology movements, and wonder how we ever could have thought otherwise. “I really do believe that,” she continued, tapping the table of the restaurant decisively.

Ms. Harder’s evolution as a crusader against light pollution began 20 years ago. It was then that St. Mark’s Church in-the-Bowery, which sits on 10th Street near Second Avenue directly across from her apartment, installed a series of “wall pack” fixtures around its exterior. Wall packs are those ubiquitous orange floodlights from which emanate as much as 1,000 watts of power; three of them shined directly up into Ms. Harder’s apartment.

She eventually complained. Church officials responded by saying that they were merely trying to prevent assaults and robberies in the St. Mark’s graveyard. Ms. Harder countered that no assaults or robberies were taking place in her bedroom, so why light it up?

Church officials finally agreed to tape over the top of the lights, and Ms. Harder went so far as to paint over her windowpanes and install triple-layer blackout curtains, but to little effect. “I mean, I was being tortured by it,” she said. (Jimmy Fragosa, church sexton, confirmed that St. Mark’s had modified the lights in response to her objections, adding, “We haven’t had any more complaints.”)

The following year, a second “light trespass” incident, as such events are technically known, took place outside the house in East Hampton that Ms. Harder owns with her partner, John Imperatore. A full-time fighter in the battle against light pollution was born.

“That’s when I became a full-time dark-sky advocate,” Ms. Harder said. “That’s when I knew there was no escape wherever you were.”

Since then, she has come a long way. She has plunged into the byzantine ways of Albany, where three times, unsuccessfully so far, she has lobbied for and contributed information to legislation that would control exterior lighting levels. (Ever hopeful, she plans to try again next year.)

She has delved into the arcane world of lumens, foot-candles and uniformity ratios. She has analyzed the pros and cons of high-pressure sodium bulbs versus metal halide ones, and become intimate with the properties of the semi cut-off luminaire — a luminaire is engineer-speak for a light — versus the full cut-off luminaire.

She eagerly spouts statistics on subjects like a possible link between prolonged exposure to artificial light at night and breast cancer (the correlation exists, she says, citing a 2005 article in the journal Cancer Research) or the connection between additional street lighting and decreases in crime (that connection doesn’t exist, she says). Elected officials in the city and beyond have grown accustomed to her combination of sweet talk, cajoling and bullying.

In short, Ms. Harder has become a virtual one-woman dark-sky mover and shaker in a city and state that she describes as “way, way behind the curve” in their lighting policies. “The whole Czech Republic has a lighting law,” she pointed out. “Lombardy has a lighting law. Malta has a lighting law. Long Island’s done wonderful things. But there’s something about New York.”

With a jaundiced eye, she gazed at the small park across the street from the restaurant. “I mean, imagine what they’d make of that in Paris,” Ms. Harder said. “But here some lighting designer just dropped down a few standard unshielded high-pressure sodium lights, and the result is a mess. A total mess.”

Despite major victories on Long Island — the towns of Riverhead, Huntington, East Hampton and most recently Brookhaven have all implemented dark-sky legislation in the past three years, largely based on her suggestions — Ms. Harder has found New York a tougher nut to crack. This, she and others contend, is because the city’s Department of Transportation, which oversees the installation of New York’s streetlights, has regularly opposed dark-sky legislation introduced in Albany, citing safety issues.

“The real buzz saw we come up against repeatedly is the city,” said Assemblyman Alexander Grannis, a Democrat who represents the Upper East Side and Roosevelt Island and who three times in the past four years has sponsored dark-sky legislation in Albany with State Senator Carl Marcellino, a Republican from Long Island. “They have a certain type of approach that theirs is the only way to deal with the issue and ‘we’re not going to change.’ “

In response, Iris Weinshall, the transportation commissioner, said in a statement that the city was taking measures to reduce the wattage of its 180,000 streetlights. But Ms. Weinshall added: “Our streetlights are critical to keeping pedestrians, motorists and cyclists safe at night, and we’ll continue to do our best to make sure that our streets are safe and well-lit.” A department spokeswoman, Kay Sarlin, said the agency receives hundreds of requests a year for new streetlights “from residents concerned that their streets are too dark.”

And Steven Galgano, executive director of engineering for the agency’s Traffic Operations Division, described as “unacceptable” any of the new designs for street lighting he had seen from dark-sky advocates. Those designs, he added, were less bright and focused light more directly downward. The fixtures currently used by the department, he said, are only partly shielded and create a uniform blanket of light with no dark patches between the bright spots.

On a major urban highway, like the Brooklyn-Queens Expressway, he added, if motorists had to rapidly adjust their eyes as they move from bright area to dark areas, it could be dangerous. “But if anyone can show us a full cut-off luminaire that needs less energy and produces the same amount of light,” Mr. Galgano said, “we’d be happy to look at it.”

Nor is the Transportation Department the dark-sky movement’s only adversary. Opposition also comes from some of the city’s business improvement districts, as was apparent one evening a few weeks ago when Ms. Harder conducted a little tour of what she regards as some of the city’s dark-sky trouble spots. At the wheel was her partner, Mr. Imperatore, a real estate developer and patient chauffeur.

The first stop was Midtown. “The whole area around Penn Station all the way to Grand Central is just insane,” Ms. Harder said. “They put up all these drop-pendant double jobbers using metal halide. It’s just sick.”

The “double jobbers” were twin-headed 250-watt fixtures that emitted an intense blue-white light, and had been installed by the 34th Street Partnership, a business improvement district. These lights, combined with the lighting on storefronts and billboards in the district, many of them outfitted with 10 or more thousand-watt bulbs, produced a glow that seemed uncannily similar to daylight. People and objects were clearly visible, yet strangely indistinct. Depth of field seemed to disappear.

At Seventh Avenue and 36th Street, Ms. Harder pointed out three double-headed fixtures on one corner. “A cluster glare bomb!” she announced brightly.

Two blocks south, she noted a spot where 11 thousand-watt lights beneath a billboard did battle with a combined 500 watts of street lighting on the corner. Ms. Harder sighed. “I mean, which responsible human being would design lighting like this?” she said.

Farther downtown, she stopped to comment on what she saw as yet another troublesome area. Lining both sides of Broadway from Fulton Street to the Battery stood fixtures that resembled giant cigarettes placed on end.

“It’s Obi-Wan Kenobi’s swords!” Ms. Harder said with a giggle. “Seriously, lighting designers love this stuff. Their creed is ‘Glare is Good.’ And there’s no light hitting the ground, see? It all hits these beautiful old buildings and washes them out. You can’t see a thing.”

Gently, Mr. Imperatore intervened. “Honey,” he said, “I think it’s time to head elsewhere.” He turned south past City Hall, at which point Ms. Harder let out a squeal: “Ohh! O.K.! There’s a great example of good lighting.”

She pointed to a number of gaslights set in historical fixtures, flickering faintly yet clearly illuminating City Hall Park. “Those are sensitive,” she said. “They do their job. They don’t blind you, but you can see where you’re going.”

It’s hard to imagine how dark the city was until well into the 19th century. The first public lighting company, the New York Gas Company, was sanctioned by the city in 1823 to light the streets south of Grand Street. Gaslight was dangerous, flickering and dirty, and most New Yorkers, with good reason, feared the night as a time of disorder. By 1880, crude electric arc lights were set up between 42nd and 53rd Streets along Broadway, the first avenue in the country to be so illuminated, later giving rise to the label “The Great White Way.”

New inventions began arriving in a frenzy. In 1882, Thomas Edison opened the world’s first electric generating station, on Pearl Street. The following year brought a new gas mantle with an incandescent burner that emitted a white light three times as bright as the old gaslights; it, too, would be vanquished by the march of electric lighting.

Lest one imagines this light was all for “serious” purposes, New Yorkers showed their true concerns early on: By the 1890s, Madison Square was home to a giant electric billboard advertising a Coney Island hotel, 80 feet by 50, consisting of 15,000 individual lights controlled by an operator, and another, 47 feet long, promoting Heinz pickles. In the 1880s, Lady Liberty’s hand was so brightly illuminated by electric light that mariners complained and it was toned down. The city’s romance with electric light was instant and all-consuming.

With all this in mind, the question arises: Are Ms. Harder and her colleagues merely tilting at windmills? Some public-minded people seem genuinely surprised by her views, among them Daniel Biederman, president of the 34th Street Partnership.

In the 1990s, when up to four times as many murders and robberies were reported in the city as now, Mr. Biederman’s organization installed the “double-jobbers” that Ms. Harder found so offensive.

“Safety was our major goal when we began,” Mr. Biederman said. “The area was incredibly dark, and crime was very high. We deliberately chose metal halide because it doesn’t impart a sickly glow. The sodium vapor lights made people look as if they were ill.”

Crime statistics over the years have borne out his assumptions, he said, with an overall decrease in street crime in the area since 1991 “of about 85 to 90 percent.”

For Ms. Harder, such tactics are merely “overkill.”

“It seems like everything we do is fear-based,” she said. “Look, I don’t want to switch off all the lights — this is New York City — but I am against excessive and wasteful lighting. You could cut back those wattages by 50 percent and it wouldn’t make a difference.”

In response, Mr. Biederman said he was not aware “of a single letter” from anyone requesting less light, but added that he would be happy to discuss ways to address the situation while still keeping things safe. “I’d be absolutely receptive to it,” he said. “And I’d do it at some cost, too, if we felt it was right.”

Given New York’s early sweet tooth for electric advertisements, it’s not surprising that bright ads and billboards continue to be a major part of the city’s light pollution problem. Councilman Alan Gerson, whose district includes SoHo, NoHo and the Lower East Side, is drafting legislation to control certain flashing illuminated billboards, private security lights on roofs and other such “nuisance” lights.

“It’s a growing problem,” said Mr. Gerson, who hopes to introduce his legislation early next year and is optimistic about its chances. “Buildings are putting up intense lights on their facades and rooftops, for commercial or security reasons, and they forget it shines into people’s windows.”

Despite these and other obstacles, Ms. Harder remains an optimist.

“More and more advocacy groups are adopting lighting pollution as part of their collective agenda,” she said. “The fact that the Sierra Club has taken on the issue, the fact that the American Lung Association and the Natural Resources Defense Council both came out behind Grannis’s legislation — this is fantastic.”

Ben Gibberd’s book “New York Waters: Profiles From the Edge,” with photographs by Randy Duchaine, will be published in May by Globe Pequot Press.

Posted by M at 06:02:55 | Permalink | No Comments »